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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.